De carro pelo deserto da Namíbia


Quando eu dizia que ia passar o ano novo na Namíbia com a minha esposa, quase sempre causava espanto nas pessoas. Onde fica isso? Vai fazer o que lá? Quanto mais eu estudava a resposta para essas perguntas, mais eu ficava fascinado com esse novo país que aparece nos mapas desde de 1990.  Localizado na costa oeste do continente africano, entre África do Sul e Angola, a Namíbia é um dos países com a menor densidade demográfica do mundo com apenas 2,2 habitantes por km², e grande parte de seu território é coberta por desertos e parques nacionais. Essa informação já foi suficiente para convencer um paulista, em busca de sossego no ano novo, a atravessar o Atlântico rumo à Namíbia.

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Pousamos na capital em Windhoek quase nas vésperas do ano novo. A tranquila capital da Namíbia ainda guarda um pouco da influência dos colonizadores alemães que lá construíram uma bela catedral Luterana e alguns casarões que lembram vilarejos da Bavária. Outro legado deixado pelos alemães foi a fabricação de cervejas. A Windhoek Lager é sem dúvidas a melhor cerveja que já tomei na África.  Comemoramos a nossa chegada com uma bem gelada no bar da cobertura do hotel Hilton de onde se tem uma vista panorâmica do centro da cidade. O hotel é uma excelente base para conhecer o centro e funciona como porta de entrada e saída para muitos visitantes de passagem para as atrações do país._MG_6488

Apesar de ter sido colônia Alemã, a Namíbia foi tomada pelos britânicos na primeira guerra mundial.  Os ingleses ficaram com as minas de diamante e logo anexaram a Namíbia ao território da África do Sul, do qual fez parte até a sua independência em 1990.  Por conta disso o inglês ainda é uma das línguas oficiais da Namíbia junto com o Africâner e dialetos locais. Outro facilitador para o turista é que o dinheiro local chamado Namibian Dollar está atrelado ao Rand Sul-africano, que está disponível para compra aqui no Brasil e pode ser usado tranquilamente por toda a Namíbia.  Aproveitamos para conhecer a capital em nosso primeiro dia já que no dia seguinte seguiríamos para Walvis Bay no litoral.

 

Comprei nossas passagens aéreas para Walvis Bay pelo site da Namibian Airways com meses de antecedência. Pretendíamos voar no dia 30 de dezembro e só havia um voo por dia. O plano B seria alugar um carro na capital e dirigir 650 quilômetros pelo deserto até a costa. Decidimos fazer o trajeto por terra somente na volta.  Embarcamos esperando um voo lotado, entretanto o novo Embraer da Namibian Airways tinha menos de dez passageiros a bordo. Pousamos no meio do deserto e desembarcamos em um pequeno aeroporto improvisado com terminais em tendas e containers. Um novo aeroporto está sendo construído em Walvis Bay. Na saída retiramos nosso carro e seguimos 50 quilômetros rumo ao litoral norte, direto para Swakopmund. Construída pelos alemães no século XIX, essa bela vila que ainda preserva seu patrimônio histórico é hoje o principal centro turístico da região e é também conhecida como a capital dos esportes radicais. A caminho de Swakopmund já se pode admirar um dos principais atrativos da região: as dunas gigantes do deserto que chegam até a praia. Nos instalamos em um simpático hotel a beira mar chamado Atlantic Beach Villas. Era um dos poucos disponíveis nos tradicionais sites de reservas online e a escolha não decepcionou. Tínhamos um amplo apartamento térreo com uma varanda com vista para a praia. Com uma visita a um supermercado nossa noite do ano novo já estaria garantida.

Namibia

Namibia

Em nosso primeiro dia começamos com a atração maior da cidade: o deserto. O acesso é restrito a carros e grande parte de sua extensão está dentro de um parque nacional. Sendo assim, nos juntamos ao Tommy Desert Tours para conhecer as dunas em um 4X4. No folheto do tour a promessa era um safari dos Little Five, ou “pequenos cinco”, fazendo uma paródia com os Big Five, que são os cinco grandes mamíferos que todos querem ver durante um safari na África. Guiados pelo próprio Tommy, descobrimos a diversidade de vida e a fragilidade do ecossistema do deserto. Muito além dos montes de areia vivem ali várias espécies de plantas e animais que conseguem sua água através da condensação da névoa úmida vinda do mar que encobre o céu por algumas horas todos os dias. Apesar de nunca chover nessa região, a temperatura está sempre entre 10ºC e 20ºC em qualquer época do ano. De besouros a cobras e camaleões, Tommy mostra todos esses pequenos animais dando uma aula de biologia. Fora a aula, o visual é de tirar o fôlego. Do topo das dunas a paisagem é marcada pelo contraste do mar azul encontrando as areias multicoloridas do deserto. Após quatro quilômetros de dunas rumo ao interior, as areias dão lugar a uma planície desértica, e mais algumas dezenas de quilômetros adentro surgem rochas vulcânicas que mostram parte da crosta mais antiga da terra em uma formação conhecida como a “face da lua”. A jornada além das dunas não está incluída no roteiro do Tommy, mas vale a viagem de uma hora no final da tarde para visitar esse cenário da “face da lua”, que já foi usado em alguns filmes de Hollywood.

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Além dos passeios pelo deserto, vale conhecer também o cais de Walvis Bay e admirar a colônia de pelicanos na praia. É fácil tomar um barco no porto e visitar a colônia de focas nas águas geladas do oceano Atlântico sul, rico em vida marinha, que aliás é um prato cheio para os amantes de frutos do mar.

Passamos três das noites mais disputadas do ano em total tranquilidade em Swakopmund.  No dia 2 de Janeiro decidimos cair na estrada e seguir rumo ao interior a caminho de Sossusvlei, uma das principais atrações da Namíbia. Nesse dia descobri meu primeiro erro de planejamento.  Todas as estradas da região apesar de largas e bem conservadas são de terra batida. Portanto ao alugar um carro escolha um veículo 4X4 e não um pequeno Polo como eu. Cruzamos o deserto por dezenas de quilômetros sem encontrar com um único carro, enquanto muitos dos meus amigos encaravam horas de congestionamento para voltar da praia após o ano novo no Brasil.

Namibia

Namibia

No primeiro dia viajamos cerca de 300 quilômetros até um hotel no deserto chamado Rostock Ritz que seria nossa base pelos próximos dois dias. Durante todo o trajeto não avistamos nenhum ponto de parada, nem um posto de gasolina sequer, apenas alguns banheiros públicos improvisados com um cercado de madeira e um buraco no chão. Nosso Polo aguentou bravamente o calor e a areia do deserto passando por paisagens deslumbrantes. Vez por outra atravessávamos leitos de rio secos que por nunca encherem não se fazia necessário construir pontes. Nesses leitos de rio algumas árvores e plantas crescem com a ajuda da água que corre pelo subterrâneo.

Chegamos ao Rostock Ritz e encontramos um verdadeiro oásis no meio do deserto. Com os chalés construídos no alto de uma colina em forma de iglus, a vista que se tem dos apartamentos é de tirar o folego. Sem qualquer luxo cada iglu tem uma cama de casal coberta por um mosquiteiro e um ventilador de teto que se move por energia eólica. A arquitetura do iglu deixa a temperatura interna bem agradável. Foi da nossa varanda que vi o céu mais estrelado da minha vida.  No dia seguinte partimos bem cedo para Sossusvlei, que ainda estava a quase quatro horas de viagem, na tentativa de chegar às dunas gigantes quando o sol não estivesse alto. No caminho vimos o espetáculo do nascer do sol cercado de manadas de zebras e antílopes no deserto.

Namibia

Namibia

Quando entramos no parque nacional já chegava perto das 10h00. Deixamos nosso bravo Polo para trás e pegamos um veículo 4X4 do parque que nos levou até as dunas gigantes de Sossusvlei. A paisagem não podia ser mais maravilhosa. Dunas de mais de 300 metros e tons avermelhados contrastavam com lagos secos de tom amarelado e árvores de milhares de anos fossilizadas. O coração do parque era mais seco que qualquer outro local que atravessamos do deserto. Escalamos uma duna gigante sofrendo com o calor para ver o visual lá de cima, retornando para o carro uma hora depois já meio desidratados.

Namibia

Namibia

Na volta pretendíamos conhecer uma cidade chamada Solitaire que era anunciada por placas desde que deixamos o litoral e ficava no caminho de volta ao hotel. Seria uma parada perfeita para o almoço. Quando nos aproximávamos da cidade passamos por um posto de gasolina que era o único que vi no caminho todo. As placas nos confundiam. Não conseguíamos encontrar a tal cidade e já meio famintos decidimos voltar e parar no posto mesmo. Ao chegar, para a nossa surpresa, o posto de gasolina era Solitaire. A zona urbana da cidade era formada pelo posto, um restaurante, uma lanchonete, um pequeno mercado e uma borracharia. A placa de bem-vindo a Solitaire indicava que na cidade havia 92 habitantes. Provavelmente a grande maioria vivem nas fazendas da região. Nos deliciamos com um bife de antílope antes de retornar ao hotel para a nossa última noite no deserto. No dia seguinte outros 300 quilômetros nos separavam da capital Windhoek, onde passaríamos a última noite antes de deixar o país. De volta ao hotel, admirando meu último pôr do sol na Namíbia, coloquei aquele simpático país entre os cinco mais bonitos que eu já tinha visitado em uma longa lista de 65 países. Agora quando me perguntam o que foi que eu mais gostei da Namíbia a resposta é simples: o silêncio, a simpatia e a simplicidade de um lugar maravilhoso.

Namibia

Namibia

Namibia

Namibia

Namibia

Namibia

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Anaisa Seneda
Anaisa Seneda
Sobre o autor

Acabo de completar 30 anos e estou disposta a desbravar o mundo com a minha câmera. Nasci e cresci no interior de São Paulo em uma família pacata de raízes italianas e usei meu passaporte pela primeira vez em 2010. Desde então, me tornei uma viajante incansável; já estive em mais de 40 países. Em 2015 deixei meu trabalho como gerente de projetos e coach empresarial para dar a volta ao mundo e estudar na Europa.

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First off I would like to say fantastic blog! I had a quick question which I'd like to ask if you don't mind. I was curious to know how you center yourself and clear your head prior to writing. I have had a difficult time clearing my mind in getting my ideas out there. I do take pleasure in writing however it just seems like the first 10 to 15 minutes tend to be lost simply just trying to figure out how to begin. Any suggestions or hints? Cheers!

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