Macedonia the Great


 

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Sempre gostei de desbravar novos destinos no Leste Europeu, e a Macedonia foi um dos mais especiais deles. Antes parte da Yugoslavia, o novo país ainda tem pouco destaque na Europa mas tem potencial para ser um dos melhores destinos do continente. Passamos mais de dez dias desbravando esse belo país de carro, gastando pouco, e conhecendo algumas das paisagens mais bonitas que vi na Europa.

I have always enjoyed exploring new destinations in Eastern Europe, and Macedonia was one of the best. The new country, born out of former Yugoslavia, is still not a hotspot for tourism, but with all its potential it can soon be among the best destinations in Europe. We spent over ten days exploring this beautiful country by car, spending very little money, and discovering some of the most beautiful landscapes in Europe.

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Photo: St John church in Ohrid    

 

Skopje

Começamos nossa viagem pela capital Skopje. A pequena cidade com pouco mais de quinhentos mil habitantes passa por uma reformulação arquitetônica faraônica. De olho em uma vaga na União Européia, o presidente transformou o centro repleto de prédios dos tempos do socialismo em uma homenagem muito extravagante ao personagem mais famoso da Macedonia: Alexandre, O Grande. O projeto de urbanização é polêmico não só pelo fato de Alexandre ter nascido e vivido um pouco longe de lá, mas também pela fortuna gasta na construção de monumentos. Agora em sua fase final, essa obra, ao menos para os turistas, é bem interessante. Felizmente, em meio a museus excêntricos e estátuas colossais de heróis nacionais está o antigo distrito otomano que tem belas mesquitas e um fascinante bazar que funciona há séculos.

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We started our trip in the capital Skopje. With a little over 500 thousand inhabitants, the town is going through a major architecture makeover that would make former kings proud. Looking for a future membership with the EU, the Government has transformed the former downtown full of socialist style buildings, into an extravagant tribute to the country’s most famous icon, Alexander the Great. The project is very controversial, not only for the fact that Alexander was born and lived a bit too far from Skopje, but also because of the fortune spent in building colossal monuments. Fortunately, among eccentric museums and giant statues of national heroes, the former Ottoman district is still very well preserved with beautiful old mosques and a fascinating bazaar that has been fully functioning for centuries.     

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photo: Skopje new downtown 

 

 

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Caminhar pela cidade é uma aventura antropológica. Em apenas um dia é possível desbravar o antigo bairro otomano, atravessar a ponte para o novo centro e conhecer os bairros residenciais mais afastados com memória viva dos tempos de socialismo. Apesar dos novos museus gigantescos, são poucos os turistas que visitam a cidade. O final da tarde é sempre o melhor momento para uma caminhada. Do alto das muralhas do antigo forte é possivel ver o sol se por ouvindo o som da chamada para a reza muçulmana nas mesquitas. À noite, os bares da cidade ficam lotados. A preferência músical parece ser latina e muitos bares tem nomes cubanos e servem mojitos. A mulherada, que costuma ter mais de um metro e oitenta, vai a loucura quando toca Michel Teló. Felizmente, não é só a salsa que embala a Macedônia; a cena Rock local também é bem interessante, com bandas de qualidade tocando principalmente no Marakana, uma balada totalmente Rock & Roll no estádio de futebol da cidade.

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A walk through the city is an anthropological adventure. In one day it is possible to explore the old Ottoman districts, crossing the Stone Bridge to the new downtown and explore the residential outskirts with lively memories of the old socialist times. Despite the huge new museums, few tourists visit Skopje. The last hours of the day are usually the best time for a walk. Catching the sunset from the old fortress walls with the call for prayer coming from the mosques is an amazing experience. At night, the city bars get packed on weekends. It seems that locals have a passion for Latin Music and many bars have Cuban names and serve large mojitos. Young girls, usually more than 6 feet tall, crowd the dance floor whenever the DJ plays famous Latin tunes. Fortunately, it is not only Latin music that moves Macedonia; the rock scene is lively and interesting, with quality bands playing in venues like the Marakana, a club totally devoted to Rock & Roll in Skopje’s stadium.

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photo: sunset view from the old fort of Skopje 

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photo: the old fort walls

 

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Antes de curtir a noite, vale começar escolhendo uma mesa na calçada em uma das muitas casas de kebab da cidade. Skopje é o lugar ideal para experimentar o churrasco de kafta servido com pão árabe e a salada batizada com o nome da cidade, que leva cubos de tomate e queijo de cabra ralado. É difícil resistir ao churrasco feito nas janelas dos restaurantes para atrair a clientela, mas depois de cinco refeições de kebab resolvi abandonar o bairro otomano em busca de novas opções gastronomicas.   

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Before hitting the bars, it is a good idea to start with dinner in one of the sidewalk tables at the local kebab restaurants in the Ottoman district. Skopje has some of the best kebabs in the region, served with fresh pita bread and a delicious salad of fresh tomatoes and goat cheese that carries the town’s name. It is hard to resist the smell of kebab made on restaurants windows to attract clients, but after five kebab meals in a role I had to abandon the Ottoman district in search for other culinary delights.

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photo: Ottoman district in Skopje 

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Ohrid

Deixando para trás a capital, seguimos rumo ao sul da Macedônia, onde fica o famoso lago de Ohrid, o principal destino turistico do país. A cidade de Ohrid é uma das mais antigas da região com belas igrejas bizantinas e ruínas romanas. O visual da cidade debruçada na montanha à beira do imenso lago de águas azuis-turquesa é um dos cenários mais bonitos que já vi. Ficamos hospedados em uma pousada familiar muito simpática com belas vistas do lago. A senhora Gordana, dona da pousada Villa Kale, nos recebeu como netos, e todos os dias nos servia um banquete no café da manhã com várias receitas locais deliciosas. Tivemos o privilégio de visitar Ohrid em outubro, longe da confusão do verão e com a temperatura ainda bastante agradável. A tranquilidade de Ohrid é contagiante. Vale a pena conhecer a cidade com calma e ver a vida passar em um dos restaurantes â beira do lago degustando suas deliciosas trutas.

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Leaving the capital behind, we took the highway south towards the famous lake of Ohrid, the country’s most visited tourist attraction. The old city of Ohrid is a historical gem with plenty of old byzantine churches and roman ruins. The view of the old village, hanging on the cliff by the clear turquoise blue waters of the lake, is one of the most beautiful sites I have ever seen. We stayed in a beautiful family hotel with great lake views. We were hosted by Mrs Gordana, owner of Hotel Villa Kale, that treated us like family. Every morning we were greeted with a Macedonian feast for breakfast, with delicious homemade local recipes. We felt privileged for the opportunity of visiting Ohrid in October, away from the summer crowds, but with great weather. The relaxing atmosphere of Ohrid is contagious. It is well worth it to explore the city in a slower pace. Spending a whole afternoon by the lake, enjoying trout with a bottle of Macedonian wine, is part of the experience.

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photo: Ohrid village on sunset

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photo: lake shore bars in Ohrid 

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Alugar um carro é a melhor maneira de conhecer a região. Próximo â fronteira com a Albânia fica o belíssimo mosteiro de Saint Naum. Além de visitar o belo edifício histórico com as paredes da igreja pintadas com afrescos do século X, vale contratar uma canoa para conhecer uma das nascentes do lago Ohrid. A água brota do leito do lago, que é incrivelmente transparente. A estrada esta repleta de mosteiros e vilarejos albaneses que, apesar de estarem do lado Macedônio da fronteira, exibem com orgulho a bandeira da Albânia. Agora com boas conexões para os principais aeroportos da Europa a Macedônia pode entrar facilmente na sua lista de países.  

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Renting a car is the best way to explore the country. Not far from Ohrid and close to the Albanian border, is the beautiful monastery of Saint Naum. Besides visiting the old church and its painted frescoes from the 10th century, it is worth it to rent a small boat to see the springs that give birth to Lake Ohrid. The crystal clear water comes from the ground like magic making the place beautiful and surreal. The region is dotted with old churches and villages that proudly show the Albanian flag even in the Macedonian side of the border. Now easily connected to major airports with a good choice of budget airlines, it is time to add Macedonia to your bucket list of destinations.    

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photo: Saint Naum Monastery

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photo: Natural springs of Lake Ohrid 

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photo: fresh lake Ohrid trout

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photo: Bay of Bones Museum 

Fernando Russo
Fernando Russo
Sobre o autor

Hoje com 38 anos, estou deixando minha agência de viagens de incentivo no Brasil pela oportunidade de viver mais uma experiência internacional. Nessa vida de viajante, tive a oportunidade de fazer três viagens de volta ao mundo e há chegado a hora de fazer a quarta, dessa vez compartilhando a experiência com a minha esposa.

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Fotos: Macedonia
March 01, 2016

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